A
DAY AT THE INCREDIBLE WOLF ROCK
Rainbow Beach is a sleepy little holiday town 230km north
of Brisbane, the state capital of Queensland. For most tourists it is the
gateway to the World Heritage Listed Fraser Island, the largest sand island in
the world, but for divers it is the gateway to the incredible Wolf Rock.
Located about a 1km off Double Island Point, Wolf Rock barely
breaks the surface, but what lies beneath is one of the most impressive dive
sites in Queensland. I have done a number of wonderful dives around Wolf Rock
over the years, but one of my most recent dives was simply spectacular.
You know you’re in for a good dive when you enter the water
and are surrounded by a school of barracuda. We hardly had time to enjoy the
spectacle before the fish had moved on.
Descending onto the rock, we decided to swim around the
southern side, which drops straight into 33m of water. The visibility was around
20m, around average for Wolf Rock. Following the wall we quickly spotted many
beautiful deepwater corals, including black coral trees, soft corals and spiral
sea whips. The fish life mainly consisted of reef fish; including angelfish,
butterflyfish and morwongs.
Wolf Rock is made up of five pinnacles lined up almost north
to south, with two pinnacles at the southern end breaking the surface. Heading
to the north the pinnacles get progressively deeper. Moving up the eastern side
we explored the deep gutters between each pinnacle, finding more bushy black
coral trees.
Reaching the northern pinnacle, we found ourselves in the
current line and surrounded by an explosion of life. A dozen spotted eagle rays
where hovering over the pinnacle. As we got closer they broke formation and
started to swim circuits around the pinnacle. It was like being at an air show,
watching the best pilots trying to out perform each other.
Looking down to the gutter below, two large Queensland
gropers started moving in our direction. These large fish, over 2m long, came in
close to inspect the bubble blowing visitors to their realm. Their curiosity
satisfied they moved back into deeper water.
Looking around there was a constant influx of fish, schools
of batfish, trevally and surgeonfish circled the pinnacles. We could also see
sweetlips, bream, angelfish, goatfish, globefish and fairy basslets darting
around the corals.
Suddenly, literally out of the blue, a bronze whaler shark
zoomed in with effortless grace. I was ready with my camera to photograph this
streamline predator, but it shyly turned away about 8m from us. The whaler made
two more passes, but always kept its distance.
We then drifted with the eagle rays for a while, swimming in
mid-water with these majestic creatures. Heading south we explored the gutters
on the northwest side of the rock, which sit in 20m to 25m. Grey nurse sharks
can be seen here almost year round, however none were in residence today, but we
could see some Queensland gropers.
First one. Then four. Then six. Then eleven gropers. Swimming
around us were eleven massive Queensland gropers. It was quite a sight to see so
many of these 2m long fish drifting around us. Queensland gropers were once
senselessly killed by fishermen and spearfishermen, but are now fully protected.
As we headed back to the anchor it suddenly got quite dark,
like a cloud was passing overhead. I looked up to see a dense school of
trevally, hundreds of them swimming in a tight formation. But as quickly as they
appeared they were gone.
We spent the final minutes of our dive looking at some of the
smaller critters that live at Wolf Rock including; moray eels, nudibranchs,
gobies, scorpionfish, sea stars, shrimps and coral crabs.
On other dives at Wolf Rock I have encountered one of its
main attractions, grey nurse sharks. On one particular weekend there was over
twenty of these majestic sharks, all 2m to 3m long, that boldly swam straight
toward me, forcing me to duck to avoid a collision.
Wolf Rock is one of the most important habitats for the
critically endangered grey nurse shark and was fully protected by the Queensland
Government on the 19th Decembe
r 2003.
Also commonly seen around Wolf Rock are leopard sharks,
wobbegong sharks, manta rays, tawny nurse sharks, white spotted shovelnose rays,
turtles and black-blotched stingrays. There is also a resident tiger shark,
which is only occasionally seen by divers. On one dive it swam straight over my
head. I looked up in time to see the tail end of this 3m long shark disappearing
into the blue.
Beside Wolf Rock there are two other interesting dive sites
at Rainbow Beach. Nursery Reef is a shallow rocky reef, only 5 to 7m deep, with
an excellent variety of reef fish and invertebrate species to be seen. While
Round Bommie, 5 to 15m deep, is a large rock monolith home to stingrays, turtles
and a wealth of other species. It is a great place to see leopard sharks during
summer, with up to a dozen seen lazing on the sand.
Trips to Wolf Rock use to be occasionally run by the dive
shops on the Sunshine Coast at Noosa and Mooloolaba, but since Wolf Rock Dive
Centre opened at Rainbow Beach it can be dived anytime of the year.
Article appeared in Dive Pacific No.90 Oct/Nov 2005
Dive Shops
Rainbow Beach - Wolf Rock Dive Centre
Noosa - Noosa Blue Water Dive or Resort 2 Diving
Mooloolaba - Scuba World or Sunreef Diving Services